Sunday 18 May 2008

Poperinghe and Menin Gate

Where does time go? A moment ago we were in Belgium, then back to Krakow, and now it seems I'm trying to recall the battlefields whilst thinking of our next trip!

I think I left you in V-B and I have to say that after 3 solid days of WW1 cemeteries and memorials it all begins to blur. Therefore, it might be best if I stick to some highlights. For example, a definite highlight was our visit to Toc H! It was a very moving time as 3 of the 4 of us (not me!) had a grandfather at the Somme, Ypres and Tyne Cot. To go to a place where they had been was almost too much. We all felt that we had paid our respects and given our thanks - ghosts wander these streets and buildings.
In Poperinghe, Toc H was set up by 'Tubby' Clayton and was a true refuge for the lads going up to the Front, or returning after a 'push' or offensive. Real name Talbot House, it became the place where rank was left on the doorstep and everyone was welcome. On the top floor, up a steep flight of steps is the chapel. It is somewhat disquieting to read names on chairs etc of lads who chose to be confirmed just before they went up the line - most never to return. Yet seeing the tiny oil lamp that lit the way for the soldiers to Toc H gave a feeling of warmth and welcome.

We were warmly welcomed by the caretakers and offered a cup of tea - rather as the grandfathers might have been in 1915/16/17/18/. After a tour of the house and beautiful gardens we had our cuppa and, feeling much refreshed, went on our way.
At Toc H soldiers could borrow a library book to read in house - there were no library cards, and a soldier handed over his hat as collateral! After all, it was a chargeable offence not to wear one's hat outside - so no books went missing! There are many stories - far too many to relate here. Suffice to say - if you are in this area - go to Toc H!



Another must is of course the Last Post at the Menin Gate. So solemn and so respectfully done by the Belgium Police and Fire Brigade. On the evening we went an Australian Digger recited the lines and wreathes were laid. It is true to say that before the ceremony people were really rather holiday-like, but as soon as it started the atmosphere changed to one of reverence. I was so glad I had gone to this.

The memorial gate itself is much bigger than at first glance. You really have to go all round it and then up the steps and out to the back where even more names are carved. All sorts are there from units we might recognise to those such as the Jamaica Corps! Or the Cyclists Corps.

The next highlight was the day that we found an Auberge in 'Plugstreet' where my husband's late granpa was! We found the Sheffield Pals!!!! We walked round Plugstreet, saw deer in the woods where German defences still exist and then went to try to find various places that Pop might have been!

And that is it for today. Incidentally, yes! I did manage to find Belgian chocolate in Ypres and yes I did eat my favourite choc au pain!

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