Poperinghe and Menin Gate

Where does time go? A moment ago we were in Belgium, then back to Krakow, and now it seems I'm trying to recall the battlefields whilst thinking of our next trip!

I think I left you in V-B and I have to say that after 3 solid days of WW1 cemeteries and memorials it all begins to blur. Therefore, it might be best if I stick to some highlights. For example, a definite highlight was our visit to Toc H! It was a very moving time as 3 of the 4 of us (not me!) had a grandfather at the Somme, Ypres and Tyne Cot. To go to a place where they had been was almost too much. We all felt that we had paid our respects and given our thanks - ghosts wander these streets and buildings.

In Poperinghe, Toc H was set up by 'Tubby' Clayton and was a true refuge for the lads going up to the Front, or returning after a 'push' or offensive. Real name Talbot House, it became the place where rank was left on the doorstep and everyone was welcome. On the top floor, up a steep flight of steps is the chapel. It is somewhat disquieting to read names on chairs etc of lads who chose to be confirmed just before they went up the line - most never to return. Yet seeing the tiny oil lamp that lit the way for the soldiers to Toc H gave a feeling of warmth and welcome.

We were warmly welcomed by the caretakers and offered a cup of tea - rather as the grandfathers might have been in 1915/16/17/18/. After a tour of the house and beautiful gardens we had our cuppa and, feeling much refreshed, went on our way.

At Toc H soldiers could borrow a library book to read in house - there were no library cards, and a soldier handed over his hat as collateral! After all, it was a chargeable offence not to wear one's hat outside - so no books went missing! There are many stories - far too many to relate here. Suffice to say - if you are in this area - go to Toc H!

Another must is of course the Last Post at the Menin Gate. So solemn and so respectfully done by the Belgium Police and Fire Brigade. On the evening we went an Australian Digger recited the lines and wreathes were laid. It is true to say that before the ceremony people were really rather holiday-like, but as soon as it started the atmosphere changed to one of reverence. I was so glad I had gone to this.

The memorial gate itself is much bigger than at first glance. You really have to go all round it and then up the steps and out to the back where even more names are carved. All sorts are there from units we might recognise to those such as the Jamaica Corps! Or the Cyclists Corps.

The next highlight was the day that we found an Auberge in 'Plugstreet' where my husband's late granpa was! We found the Sheffield Pals!!!! We walked round Plugstreet, saw deer in the woods where German defences still exist and then went to try to find various places that Pop might have been!

And that is it for today. Incidentally, yes! I did manage to find Belgian chocolate in Ypres and yes I did eat my favourite choc au pain!

In Flanders fields

This entry is published just after our trip across to Belgium. We wanted to do a couple of things. First, we wanted to see some old friends whom we hadn't seen for 16 years - and we also wanted to see some of the WW1 scenes of battle in Flanders Fields.

We were flying Wizz and that meant the totally inhumane start of 01:00!!!!!!!!!! YUK! A taxi to the bus station at 02:00, then the Wizzbus at 02:30 - for a 2 hour bus run to Katowice. (That took longer than the actual flight to Charlerois!!! We boarded and were all set to take off - we pushed back and ..then sat on the apron for TWO HOURS because the fog was so thick. We thought our flight was doomed, but at least they let us use our mobiles...so we contacted our friends so they wouldn't leave the house too early.

We finally took off and got to Belgium without further dramas. N & V were there to meet us and what a reunion! Of course we all claimed we hadn't changed a bit!! Despite the early start I managed to stay awake all day. Wed went to a SSAFA lunch, then relaxed till evening when we had a BBQ and a few friends came round. That was such a good night. Roast lamb bbqed! Oh boy! First lamb we'd had for 6 months........................ Just delicious.......

Our friends live just outside Mons and we had an absolute ball with them. It's amazing when you can just pick up the pieces and gossip as if you've just been away for a week or so!! We were very lucky as our friends took leave to spend time with us and so the four of us went off together....

On Sunday we did the Battle of Mons, guided by a friend who knew his stuff. We learned a great deal, such as ...did you know that the first and last shots of the war were fired about 10 meters from each other - on opposite sides of the road? Or that the first and last allied dead are buried in Mons Military Cemetery opposite each other? That was by chance.

The first blood drawn as actually by sabre - not by bullet and the places where the first and last 'action' happened is literally meters apart. You could say that the allies managed to cross the road after more than 4 years of bloodshed!

Well, after that we had to have a decent sit down so repaired to a lovely Belgian pub called the Maggots by our SHAPE friends. Excellent beer and company....

Monday was set aside to drive to Villers Brettoneux. This was our chance to see part of the Somme and visit the Australian memorial. the town is very pro-Aussie. As you can see, they are into kangaroos!! We'd managed to adopt a couple of stray Aussies and they came round with us. We found the smaller of the two places and after walking round I found the original grave of the Australian Unknown Soldier. That was quite a surprise. I can tell you.

Then we had a typical French lunch -the set menu and wine! This was very good and set us up for the afternoon when we went to the main cemetery which is HUGE. With the rain -which decided to fall we had a good idea of how soggy and awful it must have been for the men trying to fight over the impossibly open ground. Our resident experts enjoyed talking tactics while we listened and read some of the notes and so on that had been left.

I leave today's notes with an image of mixed sentiment. There was a cyclists' corps and someone had visited. Sad yet so apt.