It was Christmas Day in the guesthouse...

Jolly Christmas green for this one I think. I'd add holly and stuff like that but since I'm writing this in the past tense so to speak, there doesn't seem a lot of point!

So what do people normally do on Christmas Day after such a wonderful Christmas Eve? Obvious really. They go for a walk. But this was a walk with a teensy difference. We took a picnic- yes honestly we did. After all we were a bit tired and needed a break, so Mona led us across the fields on a beautiful Christmas Day's wander. there wasn't a lot of snow but we had a great time, brushed away the cobwebs and enjoyed the fresh air.

The views across the valley were very pretty and we were all happy to make a halt to discover the joys of the picnic basket. First up, of course, was that staple, the brandy. I have to say there were a few who actually declined this but I forced myself! Then to the serious business of eating. Cutlets, tomatoes, bread, cake ... it was just terrific and we didn't mind that the tea and coffee had gone a tad chilly.

We had a short day because we wanted to get back, have a rest, get cleaned up in time for the Renaissance group who were to sing for us before dinner. Well! They were just amazing. They sang a variety of medieval songs and carols and it was somehow the perfect way to end the two Christmas Days. No one wanted to move or breath while they were singibg and threy left behind copies of their CD - which promptly sold out.

And yes- the ususal amazing dinner was on offer - but tonight was an early night as we knew that tomorrow was to be a bit more energetic - tobogganing for all!

So we did repair to bed early - at least early for us!

T’was the night before a Romanian Christmas.

Don’t you just love holidays where the hosts tell you that breakfast is at 9am? And that the trip will leave at 10.00? Yep, me too. Well, let’s face it – when you’re on holiday, do you really want to be up at the crack of dawn? So that was the way it was in Miklosvar. On this day’s agenda were several things we thought would be interesting and fun and so it proved. We started our travels with a visit to a Saxon fortified Church in Honiberg. Strange to see so many Germanic names till you realise the extent of the Saxons. These people knew how to defend themselves. The village was built with the Church on the hill – and it was well fortified with very thick walls and wonderful accommodation for every villager. Let's say you lived in house number 75 in the village. Well, when the Turkish hordes decided they wanted to visit, you sought shelter in the fortified Church grounds, and guess what? Your room in the walls there was also number 75! So you could never get confused or lost. And with true Germanic efficiency, there was a school; various workplaces (carpenters, smiths, weavers, bakers etc) so no one was idle in times of trouble. The able bodied men would of course be manning the walls, hurling various missiles down on enemy heads, but deep inside life carried on as usual. Even water was no problem as every fortified Church/village had its own well, if not two or three.

Unlike most Polish churches these were all Lutheran -so very plain with inscriptions in Latin or German. The war memorials were in German Gothic script; quite took me back to my early German lessons at school (I knew there was a reason for those old text books – Aufenhalt in Deutschland!!)

In addition to this we had the fun of a crazy puppy which wanted to steal everything we had including gloves, hats, cameras…. But lovely with it. After this amazing place we went on into Braşov. We wanted to see the Black Church but unfortunately it was shut! On Christmas Eve of all times… but then again, the excuse was that they were preparing for Christmas Eve services. I have to say that this would not have happened in Poland.

We had lunch which included the purchase of a bottle gin and several tonics! Oh yes… plans were afoot for a very merry Christmas! Walking round a bit of Braşov we saw that even in the bigger towns there was not the wealth of Polish towns. Not to worry – we were all hanging out for a trip up the gondola to see the view of the town. Well, when we got up there it was VERY snowy and FREEZING!! But it was well worth it. Despite the freezing cold wind and a distinct worry that we were about to be blown off the edge of the mountain the view was tremendous and it was quite a thrill to stand behind the giant town sign! (Rather like being behind a Hollywood sign, only more interesting!)

Well, we had to catch the last gondola down…and some of us thought wed managed to miss it – as we arrived just as they switched off the lights and a gondola left! But luckily another one came up with driver so we were ok. This was after we’d made plan to break into the restaurant, raid the bar and spend Christmas Eve eating frozen pizzas and drinking their bar dry! Never mind – another time.

So… home to Miklosvar and time for showers before the evening’s festivities began. First up on the agenda was a mini-concert by children from the next village. They were brought into the sitting room and sang Hungarian Christmas songs and carols. Boy, could they belt ‘em out. They were lovely, with all the acting and big smiles. Frankly it was a really good start to Christmas Eve.

But then it was time for the dinner. Unlike Poland, there is no ban on meat and it showed. We only had five courses – meat. Lots of pork – so tasty. We tucked in and after soup and lots of cabbage rolls and pork we were treated to the piece de resistance…a whole suckling pig! Oh yes! Mona and Charlie carried it in and it was amazing. This was a first and everyone ate so much that there was very little left. And we still had to have pudding! Of course we dug into the Count’s wine cellar… we were assured that on Christmas Eve the ‘rules’ and honesty book were suspended. Just as well!!

So what should a well-fed and waterd group do after such a meal? Hah! Easy! Charades! Oh yes. We played charades and it was the funniest thing you’ve ever seen. No one took it seriously so it was hilarious. Don’t you just love the frustration when someone can’t get their message across?

After that the six stalwarts stayed until midnight so we could wish each other a Happy Christmas. And so ended our Christmas Eve. This was another Christmas Eve which we will never forget. Great trip, great company and great food.

You called, m’lady?

It was great to wake up to a smattering of snow at last – every little helps! Today we had the promise of a couple of really good things to see. First, off to Castle Bran to see the legendary Dracula’s Castle. Unfortunately, it really is legendary! In fact, the castle’s history is much more exciting than that. It was the home to Queen Maria of Romania, who was much loved by her subjects – not bad for a furriner! She rather enjoyed going into town with the minimum of fuss and being one of the locals. I suppose, at a pinch, you MIGHT say she was the template for Diana.

The castle is perched high on a crag in the centre of town and as you walk up the hill you are struck by the aspect -and the wind! It was a very cold day and there was MUCH more snow than in our village! The drive was fairly easy, if a trifle dull, but well worth it…and we still had that sneaking hope that we’d see our old friend Vlad! But it was not to be. In reality, the said Vlad only stayed in the castle for 48 hours. Yes, afraid so – just two nights! This did not diminish our fun one bit and we enjoyed wandering through the rooms – and deliberately setting off the alarms!

Sorry! But we did.

When we walked down the hill we found an outdoor museum – of course being December and just before Christmas it was shut – but we wandered round anyway and enjoyed the snowy views.

Then it was off to lunch. The restaurant was very cozy and the food was very good -and the hot brandy was even better. You know, these Romanians really know how to warm up on a freezing winter’s day! There really is no shortage of excellent beverages. A point here - our 'deal' included all trips and food etc - and we were NEVER offered the cheapest thing on the menu. In fact, quite the opposite. We were encouraged to order as much as we liked - starters, mains and puds too!

I did notice that the decorations were a tad gaudy…and even more worrying was the ever so slightly evil looking Santa in the hallway! But never mind…we were fit to venture once more into the snow…and to a second fortified castle…high on a hill en route home.

The village was Răsnov and was built in 1225 (for those of you history buffs), and as yet another Teutonic Knights hangout. It was more of a fort really and the snow was so heavy that we were unable to appreciate the 360° view. It was whiteout time! However, we still enjoyed the visit and all that fresh air and food and walking and …and … made for a very quiet car en route home! The big Zzzzz must have been seen from space. And when we got home – full house for Christmas. Tomorrow would be Christmas Eve and we were all wondering what that might bring as we’d been promised a wonderful dinner…

Village scenes 22-12-2008

Totems aren't just for poles!

It's now Day 3 - Suspend time why don't you. I'm only doing this so I don't forget what a fantastic time we had!!

Memories of muddy roads, cows, goats and horses and carts. The Turbo version of that last is when you see the cart pulled by one horse and the turbo horse trotting along beside or behind. The Supercharged version?? Ea-sy! TWO horses towing and one extra!

First impressions of the Romanian countryside was just how much poorer it looked than Poland. Having said that, at least the fields were large - Not strip framing. But there again, this was the result of collectivisation! Very few tractors were in evidence and in addition to this, very little mechanisation of any kind.

First stop - a wood carver's home which houses the 15th generation of carvers! Beautiful work - even the gate was amazingly carved. Inside the ground the family had their own totem. Moving on, we went next to see a mill.

This mill still produces all the flour and animal feed for the district. It was great to see something that was still in use - complete with cats, one of whom was in grave danger of being adopted by us! The mill owner's widow gave us coffee - I do like Romanian coffee - and her family were most hospitable. Bearing in mind that this is a Hungarian speaking region, there's a lot to consider including how they are treated. More of that later.

Many villages still have and use the village pump for water. Or, as we saw, people will come to the mill to get water form the mill lade. We even saw a woman washing the laundry in the river. It was winter folks. How lucky are we with all our mod cons?

Next off to see a cemetery. Not just any old cemetery, but one with totems as well as grave stones. Now here's the swift guide: Tulips. If the tulip is closed, it's a man's grave; if it's open, it's a woman's. The carvings tell about dates of birth, death, occupation and even children. Got that? Good, as the test will be later. There were a couple of beautiful totems.

After lunch back at the Guesthouse (with wine of course!) we were taken on a walk to see the Count's Hunting Lodge. this once beautiful building had been wrecked by the Communists and needs a great deal of work to restore it. But ... the Count is doing just that. We had a wander round inside and it's just possible, using your imagination to 'see' how things would have been.

Returning to the Guesthouse for afternoon tea, we were greeted at the door by a most elegant gentleman who introduced himself "Hello, I'm Tabor, would you like tea?" Well, yes - it was the Count himself. We were very lucky to meet him and had a lovely chat over brandy and tea - oh yes - the home made brandy...6* stuff. Delicious. He explained that there is so much bureaucracy that it is taking a very long time to get permission to do things. I just hope he gets it all done as he has such wonderful plans. What's best? The fact that everything is local, so the benefits are often immediate.

And really, that was the 22nd December! Only a couple more days till Christmas!

To Transylvania!!!

Fro Krakow to Miklosvar!

A Romanian Christmas

Well, I guess it's been some time since I did this - again! Doesn't it just make you wonder where time actually goes - I mean who decided that we'd have 24 hours only in a day, when we all know we need more! And so I'm now going to try to entertain you with visions of our Transylvanian Christmas.

Day 1 - Our little adventure started simply enough - train to Vienna (sandwiches included just in case), then obiad in a little place we know near SudBahnhof! A trip out to the airport, and the easiest check-in and security ever before a flight to Bucharest. Mind you, when you arrive at Bucharest Muddy Field watch out as the folks waiting to meet 'n' greet are pressed right up against the exits! Soooo... after fighting our way out we tried to find the guy who was to take us to the hotel for our overnighter. Luckily he arrived just as we were calling then hotel...The Four Seasons ... very nice place. Apparently it's in the rich area - hmmmm...that's relative I'd say.

Day 2 - a quick visit to the local shopping centre "Jollie Ville" to use the cash dispenser - but of course that was after being let in the fore exit as the security had lost the main entrance keys! Then.... to the Gare Nord to buy tickets for our 1130 train....... but as you might expect....it didn't exist! Oh boy! Instead of an hour's wait we had 3 hour's wait till we managed to get the IC train to Brasov. And here's the thing. They have Business Class on this train and it was just great. We had 1st class tickets but simply paid the extra and had peace and quiet.

The trip was interesting as we saw the countryside without snow - lots of mud, very poor, horses and carts, very depressing looking - and not sign that it was Christmas. The snow appeared as we went higher and I had high hopes for our holiday. At Brasov we were met by Josef and i turned out that there was another couple on the train going our way! Excellent. We were driven to Miklosvar to Count Kalnoky's Guesthouse which took about an hour. The last part of the trip was in darkness, but we were warmly welcomed by one of the managers, offered home-made brandy (excellent) and tea and cake (also excellent). Then we were shown to our cottages... absolutely beautiful. Original architecture, wooden beams, thick walls and wooden stoves in the rooms heated by fires underneath the building - so warm that we thought we'd gone to the tropics by mistake!

But that's not all folks... the bathroom had softened water, underfloor heating and was totally modern; the furniture was antique, with our bathroom door from 1862 - and that was young! We even had our own crucifix above the bed and a couple of bulbs of garlic above the entry - which incidentally was a double door - and excellent for keeping out the cold and snow as we found out later.

Dinner was served at 8pm -that was the norm - and it was good Romanian cooking. We ate in the wine cellar - yes, I know what you're thinking - and you are right! The reds we drank were very good -and we did rather go to town in the week we there - but then again, there were ooh 18? of us altogether. So since this wasn't a convention of Teetotallers Annonymouse.... well, you can guess the rest!

The best thing about all this? Well, no TV, no radio so what did we do? We all talked! Oh yes -we rediscovered that age old skill of conversation...and we spent a lot of time laughing so much it hurt!
And that's enough for this day. Next time I'll tell you all about Days 3 and 4. Try not to go to sleep on it, will you!